Farewell, Jackson

It's been more than five months since we've last posted. Let's just say there's a lot going on.

These photos are the final ones we took in Jackson. We left there in early September and returned to the Midwest, to Kansas City. Jason took a terrific cancer research job. Our mountain baby will be here in a few weeks.

These photos are from the Wildlife museum with the Elk Refuge behind us (top), and on Town Square.

So we are back in the flatlands. Our time in the mountains was a special time for the two of us. Off to the next adventure.

"What is life?
It is the flash of a firefly in the night.
It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime.
It is the little shadow which runs across
the grass and loses itself in the sunset."

Crowfoot, Blackfoot warrior and orator 1830 - 1890

Elk Fest

Elk Fest drew hundreds of people to the Town Square this weekend. The fest marks the end of this year's feeding season on the National Elk Refuge. 

A few weeks ago the public could ride horses or walk the refuge looking for the fallen antlers. People lined up days in advance for the opportunity to hunt them. 

This weekend vendors bring their antlers, along with any other wild life horns or racks (such as the big horn sheep in the first photo, and moose rack in the third) for sale and auction. The Boy Scouts are the big winners because they have a first shot at collecting on the refuge. Then they host an auction selling bundles by the pound. The Boy Scouts use most of the money to buy feed for the elk next winer.

The crowd was a diverse one – a combination of second homeowners looking to decorate their places or wild mountain folk hoping to make a profit on their collections.

A big international story a few years back was that many dealers bought up antlers and sold them to the Chinese. They would grind up the antlers and use the powder as an aphrodisiac.

Moose on the Loose

After seeing the herd of Bighorn sheep in the National Elk Refuge I drove towards Moose, WY near Grand Teton National Park in search of bigger game. It turns out they don't call it Moose for nothing. The above photo was taken on Moose-Wilson Road, most of which is closed during Winter but will re-open on May 1. As I neared the closed section 2 moose were standing on the road. I jumped out and snapped a few shots trying not to scare them off.

They (I think it was a mother and her calf) walked a few yards down the road and stopped to see if I would pursue them. I did but also kept a safe distance.

Eventually, they moved off among the pines and we were all content to observe each other through the branches and falling snow.

Bighorn Sheep on the National Elk Refuge

All Winter we've heard about the Bighorn sheep in the National Elk Refuge, but until today I hadn't actually seen one up close. On occasion I had spied one or two with binoculars atop the lower buttes, but today, as I drove the Refuge road,  I got to see an entire heard grazing at "lower" elevations. During the Winter their coats are much longer, but in these pictures you can see the transition in attire occurring.

They've become quite used to humans and vehicles, even refusing to move off the road for joggers.  In the distance behind the herd below is the town of Jackson. 

Along the Banks of the Snake River

The weather forecast for April in Jackson has been a broken record of rain and/or snow with high temperatures of about 40 degrees. Luckily, we were able to take advantage of some sunshine along the Snake River last Saturday. The Snake River runs North and South to the West of Jackson and is a favorite for fly fishing and rafting. The levees that flank the river are extremely popular with runners and their dogs. Actually, I think the dogs preferred the chance to take a quick swim, much to the chagrin of the abundant waterfowl. 

Traci can't get enough of the mountains while Jason characteristically studies the water.

Currents are picking up with the continued melting of mountain snow, but when the sun was behind clouds it still seemed awfully cool. Spring has yet to bring warm temperatures to Jackson.

Spring Drive

Spring may not have come to the valley yet, but the valley is certainly ready for Spring. Ski resorts shut down this week amid continued snow storms and large end-of-the-season parties. Most Jackson Hole residents have fled to far-flung parts of the globe for a week or two of Spring Break relaxation. Those of us remaining are left to wait for the snow to melt, the national parks to re-open, and summer sports to begin. 

With clear roads and perfect skies we drove North toward Yellowstone yesterday. Yellowstone is still closed to automobile traffic but the Northern reaches of Grand Teton National Park were accessible. Hiking was severely limited by the recent snowfalls.  

Along HWY89 we stopped to watch 3 moose feeding in a small stream. Though we were only 20-40 feet away they seemed largely undisturbed by our presence and we in turn stayed close by the cars.

We witnessed a truly unusual sight on the drive back. With the highway deserted we yielded the right of way to 2 otters crossing the highway to get back upstream. The picture below shows the rushing creek, filled with fresh snow melt, where the otters were swimming. The Tetons and blue skies provided a great backdrop.

Sledneck Hill Climb

Last weekend was the annual Hill Climb on Snow King. Since 1974 snowmobilers have gathered in Jackson at the end of the ski season to race their snowmobiles up Snow King mountain at the South edge of Jackson. The event now draws over 10,000 viewers to watch over 300 snowmobilers race up the mountain. Top racers tackled the 1600-ft vertical climb in about 1 minute. Some sleds topped 325 horsepower and weighed only about 500 pounds!

The race track ran directly underneath the occupied ski lift. While speed was key, traction was a serious consideration as well. Without enough momentum and traction the snowmobilers slid backwards or tipped over on the steepest part of the ascent near the top. The above picture shows many volunteers stationed along the track to catch run-away sleds. 

Jackson was overrun by "Slednecks" a clever variation on rednecks who race sleds. Rigs like the one shown below crowded our small streets and brought in a culture largely unseen in Jackson. The unceasing sound of the racers reminded one of the chainsaw whose work is never finished. Of course the entire event was fueled by cheap beer, but police reports indicated that this year's event was comparatively tame. The official website for the event is www.snowdevils.org.

New views

We have started revisiting some of our favorite hikes amid all the snow.

Only a few are still accessible, though. Taggart Lake's parking lot is clear and we've taken advantage of the packed trail with our hiking boots. Others cross-country ski, or snow shoe. Hiking with snow boots makes for a longer walk. Each step is a cautious track searching for stable snow. The piles are three to four feet high in places so we keep to the groomed tracks. 

Sled Dog Race

The International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race 2009 kicked off in Jackson on Friday night. It is the largest sled dog race in the lower 48 and features teams from all over the world with various skill levels, including one musher who has won the Iditarod 4 times and has logged over 100,000 miles on a dog sled! 

For more on the race visit www.wyomingstagestop.org

In preparation Jackson road crews trucked snow back into the town and packed it down on local streets, much to their chagrin I'm sure.

The teams were a surprising mix of breeds and ages with some teams comprised of many pups from the same litter. 

There was one constant: all the dogs were incredibly anxious to run. While waiting to start dogs barked nervously and lunged against their harnesses. You might also notice that the dogs in this photo are wearing little booties to protect their feet from sharp ice and frostbite.

Mushers were men and women alike and rode on different types of sleds. Perhaps a new career for Traci???

Teams left in 2 minute intervals with a crowd of several hundred people cheering them on in single digit temperatures.

Deconstruction of a Beard

Alas, the time had come. And just like that I dusted off the clippers and sheared off 4 months of true mountain man authenticity. The beard had run its course and mustaches are not compatible with a bad head cold, if you catch my drift. Of course I couldn't resist the urge to try out several new looks. I had promised TMA several days of me sporting a mustache, but I think she'll be more pleased with this brief photographic evidence. She has suggested I start shopping for scarves. 

I think the handlebar mustache turned out quite nice. 

The carnage was great and I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the bathroom, but it's good to be semi-respectable again.

Tough Hiking in the Snow

Most of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) is closed to vehicular traffic during the Winter. A few areas of the Park are still accessible and we have taken to hiking these frequently. Moose-Wilson Road, which connects GTNP & Teton Village and provides access to the new Rockefeller Nature Preserve, is such an area. The closed road is a popular cross country ski and snowshoe path because of it's flat surface and scenery. 

As we hiked we stayed to the packed paths; to do otherwise left our feet deep in the snow. Eventually I got curious and measured the snow pack. This photo shows how far down I dug to get to what I believe was ice atop the asphalt. 

The entrance to the Rockefeller Preserve off Moose-Wilson Road shows only cross country ski and snowshoe tracks. Each step across this meadow was a surprise as at times we sank up to our thighs in snow. 

Once we made it to the trailhead by the visitor center Traci discovered the trail guide box which holds maps and normally stands about 3 feet off the ground. 

Of course our hard work was rewarded with amazing views of the mountains. Clouds rolled in and out occasionally obscuring the peaks and dropping more powder. 

Wildlife visit The Lawn

With deep snow covering the higher elevations wildlife wanders down into the valley to forage. Hundreds of elk now populate the Elk Refuge. Mule deer have been sighted all over the butte out our front door, but I was finally able to get some good pictures of them close-up on the lawn in the daylight. Mule deer are a big breed characterized by their large ears.