MO in the Mountains

Farewell, Jackson

2009-10-25T13:22:00.000-07:00

It's been more than five months since we've last posted. Let's just say there's a lot going on.

These photos are the final ones we took in Jackson. We left there in early September and returned to the Midwest, to Kansas City. Jason took a terrific cancer research job. Our mountain baby will be here in a few weeks.

These photos are from the Wildlife museum with the Elk Refuge behind us (top), and on Town Square.

So we are back in the flatlands. Our time in the mountains was a special time for the two of us. Off to the next adventure.

"What is life?
It is the flash of a firefly in the night.
It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime.
It is the little shadow which runs across
the grass and loses itself in the sunset."

Crowfoot, Blackfoot warrior and orator 1830 - 1890

Elk Fest

2009-05-17T09:18:00.001-07:00

Elk Fest drew hundreds of people to the Town Square this weekend. The fest marks the end of this year's feeding season on the National Elk Refuge.

A few weeks ago the public could ride horses or walk the refuge looking for the fallen antlers. People lined up days in advance for the opportunity to hunt them.

This weekend vendors bring their antlers, along with any other wild life horns or racks (such as the big horn sheep in the first photo, and moose rack in the third) for sale and auction. The Boy Scouts are the big winners because they have a first shot at collecting on the refuge. Then they host an auction selling bundles by the pound. The Boy Scouts use most of the money to buy feed for the elk next winer.

The crowd was a diverse one – a combination of second homeowners looking to decorate their places or wild mountain folk hoping to make a profit on their collections.

A big international story a few years back was that many dealers bought up antlers and sold them to the Chinese. They would grind up the antlers and use the powder as an aphrodisiac.

Moose on the Loose

2009-04-29T16:04:00.000-07:00

After seeing the herd of Bighorn sheep in the National Elk Refuge I drove towards Moose, WY near Grand Teton National Park in search of bigger game. It turns out they don't call it Moose for nothing. The above photo was taken on Moose-Wilson Road, most of which is closed during Winter but will re-open on May 1. As I neared the closed section 2 moose were standing on the road. I jumped out and snapped a few shots trying not to scare them off.

They (I think it was a mother and her calf) walked a few yards down the road and stopped to see if I would pursue them. I did but also kept a safe distance.

Eventually, they moved off among the pines and we were all content to observe each other through the branches and falling snow.

Bighorn Sheep on the National Elk Refuge

2009-04-29T15:21:00.001-07:00

All Winter we've heard about the Bighorn sheep in the National Elk Refuge, but until today I hadn't actually seen one up close. On occasion I had spied one or two with binoculars atop the lower buttes, but today, as I drove the Refuge road, I got to see an entire heard grazing at "lower" elevations. During the Winter their coats are much longer, but in these pictures you can see the transition in attire occurring.

They've become quite used to humans and vehicles, even refusing to move off the road for joggers. In the distance behind the herd below is the town of Jackson.

Along the Banks of the Snake River

2009-04-29T14:28:00.000-07:00

The weather forecast for April in Jackson has been a broken record of rain and/or snow with high temperatures of about 40 degrees. Luckily, we were able to take advantage of some sunshine along the Snake River last Saturday. The Snake River runs North and South to the West of Jackson and is a favorite for fly fishing and rafting. The levees that flank the river are extremely popular with runners and their dogs. Actually, I think the dogs preferred the chance to take a quick swim, much to the chagrin of the abundant waterfowl.

Traci can't get enough of the mountains while Jason characteristically studies the water.

Currents are picking up with the continued melting of mountain snow, but when the sun was behind clouds it still seemed awfully cool. Spring has yet to bring warm temperatures to Jackson.

Spring Drive

2009-04-05T10:32:00.001-07:00

Spring may not have come to the valley yet, but the valley is certainly ready for Spring. Ski resorts shut down this week amid continued snow storms and large end-of-the-season parties. Most Jackson Hole residents have fled to far-flung parts of the globe for a week or two of Spring Break relaxation. Those of us remaining are left to wait for the snow to melt, the national parks to re-open, and summer sports to begin.

With clear roads and perfect skies we drove North toward Yellowstone yesterday. Yellowstone is still closed to automobile traffic but the Northern reaches of Grand Teton National Park were accessible. Hiking was severely limited by the recent snowfalls.

Along HWY89 we stopped to watch 3 moose feeding in a small stream. Though we were only 20-40 feet away they seemed largely undisturbed by our presence and we in turn stayed close by the cars.

We witnessed a truly unusual sight on the drive back. With the highway deserted we yielded the right of way to 2 otters crossing the highway to get back upstream. The picture below shows the rushing creek, filled with fresh snow melt, where the otters were swimming. The Tetons and blue skies provided a great backdrop.

Sledneck Hill Climb

2009-04-05T09:51:00.000-07:00

Last weekend was the annual Hill Climb on Snow King. Since 1974 snowmobilers have gathered in Jackson at the end of the ski season to race their snowmobiles up Snow King mountain at the South edge of Jackson. The event now draws over 10,000 viewers to watch over 300 snowmobilers race up the mountain. Top racers tackled the 1600-ft vertical climb in about 1 minute. Some sleds topped 325 horsepower and weighed only about 500 pounds!

The race track ran directly underneath the occupied ski lift. While speed was key, traction was a serious consideration as well. Without enough momentum and traction the snowmobilers slid backwards or tipped over on the steepest part of the ascent near the top. The above picture shows many volunteers stationed along the track to catch run-away sleds.

Jackson was overrun by "Slednecks" a clever variation on rednecks who race sleds. Rigs like the one shown below crowded our small streets and brought in a culture largely unseen in Jackson. The unceasing sound of the racers reminded one of the chainsaw whose work is never finished. Of course the entire event was fueled by cheap beer, but police reports indicated that this year's event was comparatively tame. The official website for the event is www.snowdevils.org.

New views

2009-03-07T08:49:00.000-08:00

We have started revisiting some of our favorite hikes amid all the snow.

Only a few are still accessible, though. Taggart Lake's parking lot is clear and we've taken advantage of the packed trail with our hiking boots. Others cross-country ski, or snow shoe. Hiking with snow boots makes for a longer walk. Each step is a cautious track searching for stable snow. The piles are three to four feet high in places so we keep to the groomed tracks.

Sled Dog Race

2009-02-02T15:15:00.001-08:00

The International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race 2009 kicked off in Jackson on Friday night. It is the largest sled dog race in the lower 48 and features teams from all over the world with various skill levels, including one musher who has won the Iditarod 4 times and has logged over 100,000 miles on a dog sled!

For more on the race visit www.wyomingstagestop.org

In preparation Jackson road crews trucked snow back into the town and packed it down on local streets, much to their chagrin I'm sure.

The teams were a surprising mix of breeds and ages with some teams comprised of many pups from the same litter.

There was one constant: all the dogs were incredibly anxious to run. While waiting to start dogs barked nervously and lunged against their harnesses. You might also notice that the dogs in this photo are wearing little booties to protect their feet from sharp ice and frostbite.

Mushers were men and women alike and rode on different types of sleds. Perhaps a new career for Traci???

Teams left in 2 minute intervals with a crowd of several hundred people cheering them on in single digit temperatures.

Deconstruction of a Beard

2009-01-19T12:37:00.000-08:00

Alas, the time had come. And just like that I dusted off the clippers and sheared off 4 months of true mountain man authenticity. The beard had run its course and mustaches are not compatible with a bad head cold, if you catch my drift. Of course I couldn't resist the urge to try out several new looks. I had promised TMA several days of me sporting a mustache, but I think she'll be more pleased with this brief photographic evidence. She has suggested I start shopping for scarves.

I think the handlebar mustache turned out quite nice.

The carnage was great and I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the bathroom, but it's good to be semi-respectable again.

Tough Hiking in the Snow

2009-01-05T15:54:00.001-08:00

Most of Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) is closed to vehicular traffic during the Winter. A few areas of the Park are still accessible and we have taken to hiking these frequently. Moose-Wilson Road, which connects GTNP & Teton Village and provides access to the new Rockefeller Nature Preserve, is such an area. The closed road is a popular cross country ski and snowshoe path because of it's flat surface and scenery.

As we hiked we stayed to the packed paths; to do otherwise left our feet deep in the snow. Eventually I got curious and measured the snow pack. This photo shows how far down I dug to get to what I believe was ice atop the asphalt.

The entrance to the Rockefeller Preserve off Moose-Wilson Road shows only cross country ski and snowshoe tracks. Each step across this meadow was a surprise as at times we sank up to our thighs in snow.

Once we made it to the trailhead by the visitor center Traci discovered the trail guide box which holds maps and normally stands about 3 feet off the ground.

Of course our hard work was rewarded with amazing views of the mountains. Clouds rolled in and out occasionally obscuring the peaks and dropping more powder.

Wildlife visit The Lawn

2009-01-05T15:33:00.001-08:00

With deep snow covering the higher elevations wildlife wanders down into the valley to forage. Hundreds of elk now populate the Elk Refuge. Mule deer have been sighted all over the butte out our front door, but I was finally able to get some good pictures of them close-up on the lawn in the daylight. Mule deer are a big breed characterized by their large ears.

Shredding fresh pow-pow

2008-12-28T18:09:00.000-08:00

Avalanche bombs blasting in the background was the music to our first snowboarding experience.

We headed to Teton Village, or the "Ville," as our friends call the ski resort. The Teton range, of which the resort is connected, has received more than 50 inches of powder in five days. Avalanche warnings are at extreme levels with locals saying it's the most dangerous conditions in 20 years. A 31-year-old skier from nearby Wilson died in a "slide" of snow higher in the mountain yesterday.

We were safe on the smaller slopes with other ski school students. We had a terrific instructor, who managed to balance our different learning styles. Jason was methodical and perfected the toe-heel turns. I enjoyed the speed and openness of some of the runs when I could try turns. We both are popping aspirin and giving thanks for helmets.

It was a gorgeous day amid heavy snowfall and we're scheming to try the town "hill," less-crowded Snow King, soon.

Merry Christmas!

2008-12-25T13:49:00.000-08:00

Warmest greetings from our white Christmas! A large storm moved in early Christmas morning and has already dropped 7-8 inches in the Valley. The snow is supposed to continue all day and into the night; at least a foot is expected in town with more falling on the mountains. In fact the ski resort has closed about half of the mountain to skiers and stopped the tram completely; a rarity during the busy ski season.

Here's a shot of Flat Creek out our back door. Ice has narrowed the running water significantly, but water fowl still feed and play there.

Traci stands in the fallen snow on the lawn. We had a fun time playing on the local playground equipment in 18 inches of powder.

Frozen beards are fun, but pulling the ice out is not advised!

Trumpeter swans have established themselves on the creek and seem unphased by the cold temperatures.

Wonderland

2008-12-21T17:51:00.000-08:00

After taunting the snow for the last couple weeks, it is seeking its revenge. Every day we wake up to about six inches of new powder shrouding the car and sidewalks. The streets around town are completely white and packed without asphalt in sight. This will last until April or perhaps May. Our hike today was closer to town at Cache Creek. Wintry pellets sprinkled Jason's evergrowing beard. Hiking in the drifts adds a new challenge to the walks.

Temperatures regularly plummet to between 0 and -10 at night.

Next weekend we try snowboarding.

Merry Christmas.

Snow Angels

2008-12-21T17:16:00.000-08:00

Go ahead and roll your eyes at the title of this entry.

Mom and Dad came for a visit last weekend and we tried our best to test them with hikes at higher elevations.
My idea of incline has become warped after weekends of taking hikes that include up, up, up and then down. So I thought the ups and downs around Taggart Lake might make a nice, easy stroll. I forgot about some of the hills. I think their faith in my words and judgment decreased as we climbed higher. But they did great with the 4-mile stretch. We celebrated with drinks at Dornan's with the Tetons just yards from the windows.

The above photo is Mom and her snow shoes. We all took turns using them. There's more physical labor involved with snow shoes because of their bulky design.

Taggart Lake in the snow

2008-11-30T19:18:00.000-08:00

"Where's all this snow we keep hearing about?"

When we arrived in June, or after we told people of our plans to move to Jackson Hole we were greeted with responses such as "we hope you like cold weather," or "do you ski or snowboard? It's a long winter out there."

Clouds shroud the mountains and buttes in the distance, but the valley is still sans the white stuff. So, we went to find it in the hills.

We ventured today to a trail we've done before, but discovered its loveliness with a couple inches of powder.

Taggart Lake appears frozen over and its mix of pine, meadow and twisting trail near a stream on a bluff keeps the walk interesting. The pine smell permeates, though. The below photo came from a path that was out of a storybook. We strolled along through the trees with some flurries whirling and the evergreen scent lifting our moods. In a clearing not far away from the pine section we spotted two moose. They watched us as we eyed them and kept our distance of about 50 yards.

Three turkeys and a lamb leg

2008-11-30T19:02:00.000-08:00

We had much to be thankful for as we celebrated Thurs with friends and neighbors. Unfortunately our host was unable to locate a live hog for slaughter and roasting within a 5 hour radius (Clearly, we're not in the Midwest anymore.), so we opted for two lamb legs and a turkey. The lamb legs were smoked to perfection over the course of the afternoon and turned out beautifully.

ps-In case you're curious, yes, those are goggles on a cowboy hat.

High Above Jackson

2008-11-16T16:58:00.000-08:00

This weekend we set off into Bridger-Teton National Forest at the South edge of Jackson for afternoon hike. A seasoned veteran of the Snow King climb, Traci remarked that today's jaunt was more of a climb than a hike, but the views at the top were amazing.

At 9 weeks, the beard has filled out nicely and attracts a lot of attention.

Jackson sits at 6200 feet above sea level. The peak we climbed today, known as Josie's Ridge, is about 1000 feet higher and the steepest way to the top is only 1.2 miles long.

Watch your step.....

The situation was not quite as precarious as this photo might suggest but it does highlight the verticality of the ascent.

The girl from the Flatlands meets her mountain

2008-11-13T21:06:00.001-08:00

It's that time of the season for the Civic to stay in the valley.

Here is a photo of the Teton Pass between Jackson Hole and Idaho this afternoon shot from the WyDOT Web cam.

Today I went over into Idaho for an interview about a guy going to India for medical treatment as part of a medical tourism feature. I almost didn't make it back across the Pass, which is a 12 mile stretch across the Tetons that ascends up 10,000 feet and back down.
The sky was clear on the way over. I looked out the window during the interview and could see storm clouds clustering between where I was in Victor, Idaho, and home in Jackson.
I hoped it was only rain. It was, for the first few miles. Then it turned to sleet and snow. The Civic chugged up the snow-covered pass at about 5 mph. I cursed the lack of chains and tire spikes. I pulled over for a minute and tried to call Jason, and realized that I didn't have any cell phone reception. A surreal moment of freak out and adrenaline gripped me. Twisting the steering wheel for traction and flooring the gas to keep the momentum, I moved on at a snail's pace.
The little car slowly climbed upward. At the top I released the breath I was holding, knowing gravity was a good friend in this situation.
No more mountain driving until the spring.

For the record, Jason advised me to do the interview over the phone, but knew that arguing with a girl from the Flatlands is its own metaphorical uphill battle.

Snow slips away, for now

2008-10-20T21:02:00.000-07:00

Jason's Monday off during his four-day 10-hour cycle prompted the gorgeous pics from a powder blanket tucked around String Lake (below). He saw deer and elk during his two-hour hike there.

Most of the snow had melted by this weekend and the photo (top) at Hidden Falls near Jenny Lake show only remnants of the wintry tease.

Weather forecasters predict more flurries tomorrow to accompany the ebbing ivory mountain tops.

Mountain People

2008-10-12T19:15:00.000-07:00

A month's growth and Jason fits right in with the wilderness crowd. He calls it his "local badge." He says he'll either shave or iron for work, but not both.

Winter comes to Wyoming

2008-10-12T13:13:00.000-07:00

The Aspens were a blaze with their golden hues one day, and then on Friday the snow start blowing through the valley.

Jackson has received about 3-4 inches over the weekend. We walked around town to check out the wonderland on foot. Whether we are ready or not, the snow is here. It is common for Jackson and the Tetons to receive a foot or more in a single day. Ski slopes open around Thanksgiving and we hope to take a shot at winter sports. Our neighbor Tom has offered to give me a refresher and Jason a lesson.

Fun with Nana's glasses

2008-09-22T20:09:00.001-07:00

Cheesin' back in MO

Every writer needs a vintage coat

2008-09-22T20:03:00.000-07:00

Wearing her Jackson souvenir from her auntie and uncle.

Onward

2008-09-15T22:25:00.000-07:00

Where the buffalo roam...

2008-09-07T20:06:00.000-07:00

"Where the air is so pure,
The zephyrs so free,
The breezes so balmy and light,
That I would not exchange
My home on the range
For all of the cities so bright."

Jason captured a close-up of a red-naped sap sucker and a bison the size of a Volkswagen beetle (above).

Hanging with the Rockefellers

2008-09-07T19:13:00.000-07:00

We walked where financial giants once came to get away from their stressful NYSE jobs. Yes, when he wasn't venturing in capital, Laurance Rockefeller (son of John D.) was hiding out at JY Ranch beneath the Tetons, along the beautiful shores of Phelps Lake. He and his descendants had the foresight to make the gorgeous space available to the National Park Service so others could enjoy. Their generosity helped to open the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center in June. Over the last four years the family moved more than half of their 30 buildings/homes to property elsewhere so the Center could be built.

Jason looks out at Phelps Lake from a rock off Huckleberry Point.

We had hiked to Phelps Lake from the other side at the summer's beginning, but the Preserve Center's offerings were the Cadillac of hiking trails and facilities. It also has the "greenest" parking lot and restroom facilities we had ever seen. There was reserved parking for hybrid cars. The bathrooms have composting toilets and solar roofs.

Smaller wildlife

2008-08-24T19:13:00.000-07:00

This little chipmunk scurried around our shoes and bag when we took a water break on the ascent up to Amphitheater Lake. Chipmunks are "chiselers" in Jackson speak and quiet common.

We stopped in our tracks while going up to Signal Mountain two weeks ago. This insect was about as big as a fist. Locals call this a Mormon cricket but it's actually a larger katydid.

The world at two miles high

2008-08-24T18:28:00.001-07:00

Yes, that's snow in the background. I decided to take a dip at 10,000 feet at the halfway point of our 10-mile hike. I surfaced from the full-body submersion and yelped. Holy cow, it was cold. Snow melt empties into Amphitheater lake, which is surrounded by forest, rock and mountains on all sides, most notably Grand Teton in the background.

Here's a shot of Jason right before we stopped at the lake for lunch.

Signal Mountain

2008-08-10T17:49:00.000-07:00

The 3-mile ascent to Signal Mountain's crest was worth every step. Halfway there we met up with a family from Wisconsin and climbed into a wooded area before they slowed and we went our separate ways. It's always amazing how friendly people are when you are sharing a day's goal and an appreciation of the the surroundings.

These panoramic views from the top are Jason's work. He captures the valley with the Tetons directly behind him. He also snapped the one with the sunlight streaming through the trees as we hiked down.

We saw a moose on the last .5 miles as we crossed a park road. He was enjoying his dinner by a pond, but grew agitated with the swelling group of spectators armed with cameras. He started walking toward us. Everyone had a vehicle for escape, except us. I took off in a jog, but Jason warned me not to make sudden movements. The moose actually just wanted to cross the road, away from the audience. He disappeared into the forest.

Boys' Fishing and Girls' Hike

2008-08-03T09:55:00.000-07:00

We had our first visitors last weekend when Jason's family came out to explore Jackson Hole with us. While the guys went fly fishing on Sunday, Amy, Carol and I hiked around Leigh Lake. The crowded Jenny Lake parking lot confirmed the decision to do the less-trafficked Leigh/String Lake trail. We trekked for nearly two hours, pausing to take photos.

Employment and Domestic Life

2008-07-24T20:57:00.000-07:00

White Ribbon Winner! This French Apple pie took 3rd place in the Teton County Fair's apple pie division. J and the rest of the guys on the lawn were bummed that they were unable to enjoy the fruits of T's labor! Previous practice attempts have earned quite a reputation.

Hold the phone, employment is here! It was a good streak but it ended Monday with my first full day of gainful employment. The job is going very well but having to iron on occasion was not listed as a job requirement.

Ciao Bella!

2008-07-14T20:18:00.000-07:00

Italian night on the Lawn drew a large crowd. Everyone pitched in to see Tess off to Portland and to celebrate Mikey's birthday.
Mikey is always smiling, even when not full of Chianti.
Tess and Mary lean for a shot.

Rafting the Snake RIver

2008-07-14T08:15:00.000-07:00

At 6am on the morning we were to float the Snake River the temperature was a balmy 39 degrees. Luckily, the forecast called for full sun (UV index of 10) and a high temperature of 80. We had made reservations with a local guide service, which provided equipment, transportation and most importantly, breakfast. The trip included 8 miles of scenic floating, brunch and then 8 more miles of white water rafting on Class I,II & III rapids (on a I to V scale). The Snake River winds it way through the Jackson Hole valley and we put our raft in a few miles South of Jackson by Hoback Junction.

Birding is a major focus of scenic floating on the Snake River. We saw about a dozen Bald Eagles (above, left) including several large nests and even a young fledgling, which are more brown in color. Ospreys (above, right) were also very plentiful. They are known for hunting fish and often build their nests atop powerline poles as they are less capable of flying in tight spaces. American Pelicans were also fishing in the shallow waters.

Digital cameras and water don't go well together, so unfortunately, we don't have any pictures of the white water portion of the trip, but it was definitely a great time. We were completely drenched by the 48 degree water again and again; quite refreshing as the sun had emerged to full strength by then. The Snake River Canyon walls narrowed and widened, constantly changing the dynamics of the river. There were even surfers riding the stationary waves created by the river. Chilled and sun drenched we were back in Jackson in no time.

Week in review

2008-07-06T20:58:00.000-07:00

Traci: So what did you think of fly fishing?

Jason: It's extremely technical, but rewarding.

Traci: How so?

Jason: There's so much more to do technically and manually. Basically, regarding the variable casting techniques and the proper maintenance of the line in the water.

Traci: Wasn't Tom (pictured showing Jason how to cast) talking about using flies that are similiar to insects to fool the fish?

Jason: Yes, it's a regular conversation on what insects are occurring naturally and which ones to imitate to induce a strike.

Traci: The insects can strike? I didn't even know they unionized.

Jason: Tom, Mikey and Andy have an in-depth knowledge of local entymology.

(Jason and Mikey went fly fishing three days last week to Crystal Creek and Firehole River in Yellowstone, about five miles from Old Faithful)

Even rain is gorgeous in Jackson Hole...

Two Oceans Lake

2008-07-06T20:28:00.000-07:00

Another Sunday drive leads us to Two Oceans Lake trail. Wildflowers burst from the meadows as the Tetons rose from the backdrop. We've learned about a new orangish-red flower called Indian Paintbrush. The blooms spring through the surrounding bluebells and yellow mountain flowers that remind us of black-eyed susans.

We looked for moose near the Lake's thickets. We saw plenty of tracks, but no animals, except for smaller snakes.

The 7-mile hike began beneath a gray sky. Tenacious mosquitoes kept us swatting for most of the way. But the clouds traveled on and the sun beat down as we finished.

Fourth of July and Apple Pie

2008-07-06T19:21:00.000-07:00

Fourth of July in Jackson means starting the day with free hot-air balloon rides, a Jaycees pancake breakfast, and, of course, the parade.

I volunteered to gather quotes from onlookers during the parade as a way to learn more about the community. We saw plenty of blue, red and white sequin vests and cowboy hats. One family of about 10 wore multi-colored matching Old Navy T-shirts with the American flag on the front.

My therapeutic release after writing stories for next week's paper on a holiday was baking Grandma Eckler's French apple pie. It's a favorite at Mom and Dad's. I learned the hard way that baking pies is different in the mountains. I totally forgot about the altitude and adjusting bake time and temperature. At first the crumbled topping baked fast and was on its way to burning, but the apples were still a bit crunchy. Our neighbor, Mikey, had the perfect July Fourth solution: grill the pie for the rest of the time. We let it simmer in its juices on the barbecue grill while we watched the fireworks.

And on to more fun...

Here's a shot of our neighbors on the "Lawn" over the holiday weekend. One of the older residents, Big Fred, summed up what we all think about our community, and how lucky we are to hang out and enjoy our evenings together.

"My contemporaries don't understand. By this time of night they would have had dinner and be falling asleep in their chairs," he said.

-tma

It's a bear's, bear's world

2008-06-29T16:19:00.000-07:00

We headed to the popular Jenny Lake area for this weekend's hike, but decided to diverge from the crowded path and try a trail called Moose Ponds. It promised views of wildlife.

Along the way we stopped to marvel at the wildflowers and paused in appreciation of the landscape's diversity. We started on the lake's edges, but ended up trampling through meadows in the hot sun and then shuffling over a pine-needled walkway.

When a stream babbled across our path, we tiptoed across a fallen tree trunk. We thought we were almost home free, and then a sign stopped us in our tracks.

"DANGER: Due to bear activity beyond this sign, CLOSED to all travel."

A metal bear trap reflected the sunlight under a distant tree, so we switched our route and detoured around the bear zone. Rangers regularly trap & relocate bears who repeatedly encroach on campgrounds and trails. Bears learn this behavior when humans feed them or leave food or garbage out for them to eat.

We laughed on the way back because we had just purchased bear spray, a more intense kind of pepper spray. We totally thought we were over-reacting to carry it on all our hikes. It will remain on our backpack.

Local Flavor

2008-06-29T15:42:00.001-07:00

Indie rock music blares from the ice cream man's vehicle in Jackson. His treat cart is attached to a bicycle. This is just one example of the active, smalltown everyday lifestyle.

A person doesn't really need a car in town. The free START bus circles regularly. Many commuters leave their vehicles parked and take the bus to and from work. Bicycle is the most popular form of travel during the summer.

Or, for a different ride, put your inner tube in up north of town and float down Flat Creek, which flows alongside our backyard.

The town hill

2008-06-27T12:25:00.001-07:00

On Thursday evening we decided to explore the "town hill". Snow King Mountain rises above Jackson's southern edge and is known as the town hill because of its close proximity and utility for outdoor activities. Here's a view from its base.

The trail leading to the peak of Snow King Mt is a real workout, ascending 1600 vertical feet over just 1.8 miles of switchbacks. It took us about an hour to hike it, and we constantly amazed by other locals who were running and biking the steep, loose-gravel path.

At 7800 feet above sea level T surveys Jackson from an observation deck.

Dramatic views reward the tough hike up Snow King Mt. To the NW are Gros Ventre Buttes (foreground) & the Teton Mts (further off in the haze).

To the NE is the National Elk Refuge, which includes Millers Butte (smaller hill at center). For reference the building where we began the hike is located at the far bottom left, next to the larger building with the white/silver roof.

Instead of slipping and sliding back down the trail, we enjoyed a scenic ride down the mountain on the ski lift, then went grocery shopping. Can't believe it's just another weekday evening!

Working Hard, Too

2008-06-25T20:36:00.000-07:00

So, I thought I would devote a little space to the gig that made the move seem a bit more sane, or perhaps stable.

The Jackson Hole News and Guide might be one of the few remaining successful dailies.

For the last three years, while teaching and taking courses at the journalism school, I heard how newspapers would have to redefine themselves online. I listened to how reporters would all have to learn multi-media. I discussed all the theories behind plummeting circulations and busted my tail to learn podcasting and blogging.

But the News and Guide's strategy is to strip off the bells and whistles and provide community journalism in the raw. Not all stories are posted online. Reporters write for daily when needed. And the kicker: offer a subscription to a weekly that digs deeper into issues, holds public officials accountable and provides space for compelling photos and storytelling.

Last night, on deadline, an editor rearranged two pages to fit in a longer feature I wrote about the town's first bank. It would have been chopped in half somewhere else. Or thrown online only. I'm still kind of in shock.

It probably comes down to the unique culture. Everyone is well-educated and engaged in town affairs. There's a lot of money for advertising. Plus, the town's location, and constant struggles of human inhabitants living in agreement with wildlife, allow for a thriving local newspaper.

-tma

2008-06-23T12:57:00.000-07:00

In a land of black AMEX cards and unaffordable housing, we have found the people of Jackson to be laid back and unassuming, not unlike this humble sign in the middle of town. While Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks to the North & West get all the press (see sign), few realize that Jackson is bordered on the East by an Elk Refuge & to the South by the 3.4 million acre Bridger-Teton National Forest.

Bradley & Taggart Lakes

2008-06-23T12:36:00.000-07:00

Taggart Creek rushes out of Taggert Lake as the snow melts in the mountains above. Water levels in local waterways have been murky and rising this week because of the melt. While my wife hiked with a coworker on the opposite end of town I explored Taggart and Bradley Lakes in Grand Teton National Park.

The glacial lakes among the Tetons are incredibly clear and cool. This photo was taken from a footbridge that crosses Taggart Lake.

Wildflowers and sagebrush cover the hillsides and meadows in the area, as evidenced by this photo from the Valley Trail, which connects the Bradley and Taggart Lakes.

First Hikes

2008-06-18T22:10:00.000-07:00

The photos below are from Leigh, String & Phelps Lakes within Grand Teton National Park.

The Park entrances to these Lakes are about 10 miles from our front door.

Hiking (not to mention fly fishing, floating, camping, white water rafting, rock climbing, mountain biking, etc.) is a major summer attraction of the Jackson Hole area and one of our favorite outdoor activities. There are literally hundreds of miles of trails in all directions that range from grassy meadows to pine forrests to snow-capped mountain peaks. Many large and deep glacial lakes are interspersed among the mountain ranges.

Varied landscapes require more knowledge and preparation than hikes of the Midwest. The weather can change much faster in and around mountain ranges, thus it is necessary to pack layers of clothes for the most routine hikes. Erratic terrain and significant elevation changes can significantly affect the physical aspect of any outing.

And then there's the wildlife. Seeing a grizzly and and a mink in one 2.5 mile stretch of fairly well-travelled trail was a surprise. While we have learned much about the bears and moose and how to best avoid conflicts with them in the wild, there is no replacement for seeing these animals in their natural setting.

Bear!

2008-06-18T21:39:00.000-07:00

"Get the camera," Jason says, turning around to give Traci access to his backpack.

"Why?" she asks.

"I see a bear," he replies.

Sure enough. Sixth day in the mountains and our second hike, we come across what we believe was a grizzly. (S)he laid quietly in the shade of an evergreen, about 80 yards from the trail leading to Phelps Lake. We stood and watched with our binoculars. Other hikers paused.

Grizzlies have slowly made their way south from Yellowstone. Teton County is requiring bear-proof trash cans as part of the bear (human) management programs. Black bears are still more prevalent around Jackson, but grizzly populations are growing. One of Traci's new co-workers penned this story about a grizzly mom that achieved "rock star" status because of the clever way she used the human periphery to her advantage.

Neighbors/Wild Life

2008-06-18T21:03:00.000-07:00

Neighbors, including canadian geese, mallard ducks & trumpeter swans, gather in the courtyard to chat and watch the creek (and the occasional float trip) go by.

We often join our neighbors, of the human variety, at the picnic tables below our deck. It's social hour until dark. Everyone brings their own brew, and unique perspective from the place where they grew up. We're mostly all transplants, lured here by a respect for the natural world and an "oh my gosh" marvel at the the towering ivory mounds in the distance. We toast to plate tectonics, glacial lakes and the spirit that led us here.

Seduction of the West

2008-06-18T20:29:00.000-07:00

We've fallen hard for Jackson Hole. But can you blame us?